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Beginning as a fashion editor for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, he changed his name to Mainbocher and opened a fashion house in Paris in 1929, them moved to New York in 1940. In addition to dressing the cream of society and designing for the theatre, he developed the "Mainbocher corset", which was able to hold up a dress without straps. These dresses had appeared in the early 1930s, but the "absolutely strapless, sleeveless evening dress" dates to around 1937, followed by the "naked look" of bare shoulders in the 1940s.

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